East central Nebraska farm raising tiny Registered Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats.

We raise purebred/registered Nigerian Dwarf Goats for home Dairy.

We are members of ADGA, AGS & NDGA. Show Quality --> Our herd contains bloodlines from well known showing/& or production herds from different states.

We blood test our breeding stock, disease testing  our herd for CAE, CL, Johne's & Brucellosis.

Our goat kids are disbudded & the bucklings are casterated --> So NO horns & NO bucky smell.

 Home to 2014 ADGA Spotlight Sale...

*B Chenango-Hills Goddess'Ballyd

Dam: GCH Chenango-Hills IP Goddess 10*D  2*M (BOB, BIS, 6x Breed Leader / Top Ten)

Sire: *B Rosasharn SH Celtic Ballad

SEE BUCK PAGE FOR MORE ON HIS AMAZING PEDIGREE

THE NIGERIAN DWARF BREED - 

Nigerian Dwarf are one of the smallest breeds of goats (small size similar to pygmy). They are a dairy breed. They are the most miniature of all the dairy goats(they're tiny in comparison). When you see them at  dairy goat shows-like at the State Fair-you can see just how small they really are!  They may be little but they can still be easy to milk and take up much less space and far less feed then the full sized breeds.  Perfect for the homestead just wanting a few small dairy goats - 1 or 2 of these little does will give you plenty of milk for your home uses. They are the ideal milk goat and quite often can be bred year round to stagger  freshenings of does for a more continuous fresh milk supply (other dairy breeds are seasonal breeders). Their mini size is perfect for even the smallest farms, and they can keep their pasture areas weed free. They are so easy to handle, have wonderful personalities/temperment- and are perfect little livestock for farm kids and those in 4H/FFA.

Nigerians have the most variety of all the goat breeds - there are so many colors & patterns out there. Not to mention, some are polled(naturally hornless), some have blue eyes, some have wattles, many have beards & some with moonspots. (Pygmy's & other breeds do not come in as many colors & patterns nor have all the other possibilities.) With Nigerians its always an exciting surprise - it seems like you'll never know what you'll get till they're born!

Nigerian Dwarf vs African Pygmy:   Some of the differences ---> Nigerian Dwarf are an actual recognized dairy breed that have larger udders/capacity for producing more milk and larger milkable teats for hand milking(also more space underneath to milk them). Nigerians have a leaner appearance/Pygmy appear heavy boned & bellied. Nigerians come in all colors and pattern variations/Pygmy have only a few main shades and most commonly look more solid in coloring. Temperment is said to be better in Nigerian Dwarf and they are intelligent and trainable. Both breeds are/or are nearly the same height & have erect ears making them look fairly similar in those aspects. Some people do not realize they are different breeds, but Nigerians are Dairy goats. Both are  found in petting zoos - if they are colorful they are likely Nigerians or Nigerian crosses. Most often you will find that Nigerian breeders usually disbud due to them being dairy goats (so no horns grow) and most often males are banded/neutered (to totally eliminate bucky smell).  I know, we are partial to Nigerian Dwarf(of course)-but still not sure why someone wouldn't want Nigerians over pygmy ;)

Fainting Goats: We do NOT raise fainting goats (myotonics). We once had 2 as pets and learned from them what a sad thing their condition was. They dont faint,what happens is their muscles lock up like a full body cramp. They holler in pain and struggle to get up. We decided it looked painful and cruel and not something we wanted to breed more of. They are larger than Nigerian Dwarfs too.

Standard Breeds: NEVER breed any standard size buck to a nigerian doe, the doe will die from babies being too large. Only Nigerian bucks can be used on Nigerian does. Nigerian bucks can be used on standard does for mini's but never the other way around.

Dwarf Babies Arriving!

(Our birthing/bonding barn.)

Please contact us for additional info or to contact us about purchasing & for details on making deposits/payments (via sending check by mail or paying online through Paypal.)

We are near Shelby, Nebraska - pretty much centrally located in eastern Nebraska. Just a little over an hour or so drive from Grand Island, Lincoln, Fremont or Norfolk areas. 

KIDS - We usually have kids born starting in late winter, going throughout spring till summer, then a few in the fall. We stagger them out some because we really like being able to give all the kids lots of care and attention, that's impossible with lots of babies all at once. This also helps to ensure our dam raised babies get plenty of human interaction, making them tame/easy to work with.

DWARF SIZE & TRANSPORTING - Transport kids inside vehicle in a large dog crate (adults fit a large crate also). Truck beds with wire pens are too cold/windy and stressful.  Truck bed pen for adults only in decent temp/weather. Dwarf adult height is usually 17-23 inches or so - measured at the withers. Withers is the ridge between the front shoulders on their back. (Size is somewhat comparable to the size of a small lab - most often smaller). For showing the height max: Does 22.5 & Bucks 23.5. Transportation short distances can even be in a large dog crate - 2 adult does can ride in a crate approx. size of 36L x 26W x 28H (similar sized crates often fit inside vehicles - you do not need to have a truck or a trailer to transport them if you dont have either). If you have further to drive you should use 1 crate per adult.

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NO HORNS - All goats from our herd are either  'disbudded'(horn buds removed) or are 'polled'(naturally hornless) - so none of the concerns that horns would pose throughout their lifetime. Showing dairy goats requires 'no horns' so goats need to be either polled or disbudded. Horned dairy goats are less desired. (Issues with horns are not constant and some say they haven't yet experienced the issues that can arise from time to time, but long ago we did see some of them first hand...Some concerns with horns: one can break/bleeds very badly, a horn can get stuck in another goat's collar, their head can get stuck in a fence or horns get hung up/entangled elsewhere, and also the unneeded risk that they could gouge another animal, headbutt other animals or people, & I have even heard of people that have taken a horn swinging back to their face/near eye before.)

  We disbud all kids that are not polled.

We remove the horn buds by disbudding - so you don't need to worry about horns.

(If you don't want horns, don't buy any kid that hasn't been disbudded while very young/BEFORE their horns ever began to grow -usually done within a week old- weaning age is much too old, they will all ready have horns  protruding by then - & don't figure that someone can dehorn it later because many people won't even attempt it or if they ever have then they decide they won't ever do it again! And vets don't like to do it either. Dehorning & Disbuding are different. Dehorning/Removing actual horns is longer & unpleasant, but Disbudding is just mere seconds & removes the bud before it starts to develop into a tiny growing horn. Disbudding should be done as early as possible to get the most successful full removal of the buds & all the horn growth cells surrounding the buds base. NEVER delay on disbudding. )

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 We band/casterate all bucklings that are to become wethers.

We use banding as method to neuter the young males - so you do not need to worry about having it done. These wethers will NOT stink like bucks do.

(If you don't want a stinky messy buck, don't buy any buckling  that hasn't all ready been casterated while fairly young - some breeders leave it up to the buyer to do this themselves or tell the buyer that they need to arrange to have it done elsewhere/surgically/-even some vets band.  It really needs to be done when the kids are young & while their 'parts' are still 'small' - easier on them this way as well. You can't wait too long on this, & it should be done at just the right time to allow a bit more time for urinary growth. Banding ensures that they do not begin to become bucky & yucky!)

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MENTORING/ADVICE/HOW TO's/& ON-GOING SUPPORT FOR OUR CUSTOMERS - If you've never had goats or never raised them, we can help you out some by sharing our experiences either by explaining/or showing you the basics if you need (i.e. hand milking, hoof trimming, shaving for shows, tattooing, disbudding, banding, etc). You can also stay in touch and ask us anything as you go along. Care is not difficult but there are some things in breeding goats that come easier with a little knowledge. Also, there are great goat books out there and tons of information online (including videos and groups) that can all help you throughout owning &/or raising your own. A little reading/research and your good to begin. Just make sure to practice illness & disease prevention & when needs arise relating to a goats health/medical needs seek the expertise of a Veterinarian. Though few are experienced 'goat vets', a livestock Veterinarian can help.

FARM RAISED & HOME GROWN - Nigerians are an actual dairy breed not a meat breed, however, some people use them as dual-purpose dairy & chevon (some use wethers for chevon). Local natural food stores now carry goat dairy products & meat. It is said that over 70% of the world's population eats goat meat.

People are becoming more conscious of where their food comes from and have been opting to start growing and raising their own. The thought takes some getting use to - but fact is goat is used dual purpose all over the world - more than cattle. Goat is also getting more notice for being healthier.

NUTRITIOUS SUSTAINABLE LIVING - People are planting more gardens & raising free-range chickens for eggs & meat. Well, raising dual purpose livestock is the same. You can produce lots of yor own foods with chickens & goats - Eggs and Dairy Products & Meats. Caringly farm raised is the most humane, and you will know exactly what is in your family's food.

Other Links:

 http://www.nigeriandwarfcolors.weebly.com/

 tackyard Agricultural Links" target="_blank" data-mce-href="http://Stackyard Agricultural Links">Stackyard Link

<a href="http://goattipping.com/Store/goatsbystate" target="_blank">Where to Buy Goats</a>: GoatTipping.com helps you buy and sell goats within a reasonable distance of your home.

Our Nigerian Dwarf Goats -

See also - Our page of Basic Cares, Additonal info about Nigerian Dwarf, Tips/Advice, Biosecurity & lots more info to help you get started in these little goats.

WETHERS -

Wethers(banded/'neutered' males) do NOT stink like bucks do. They resemble & act more like females.

Wonderful personalities & temperments - calm & easy miniature livestock - kids just adore them. Excellent little brush/shrub clearers & are great workers for controlling weedy pastures. (Goats are 'browsers' and prefer weeds and tree leaves to grass, so they make quick work of clearing out the weeds and brush in pasture areas.)

They are also disbudded, so NO horns.

Goats are herd animals so please consider getting 2 if you dont all ready have goats. Wethers can be housed with does (& they can also be companions to a single buck but the best companion for a buck is a second buck.) Many people who are not interest in breeding/birthing or milking just keep mini herds of 4+wethers as pets or pasture control. Others just beginning in goats will start with 2-4 wethers.

Wethers do NOT need grain. NOT feeding grain to males is a preventative to urinary calculi (stones).

(Intact buckling reservations may be filled before wether requests.)

DOES -

We have Does/doelings for sale - see our for sale page for any available. Ages & prices vary - usually range from $400-$550 (some $600+ depending on genetics/conformation/dam's mammary etc...)

1 or 2 of these personal milkers can provide plenty of milk for home uses (milk to drink, cook with, make cheeses, make homemade soap bars etc). Nigerian's milk is so similar to what you're 'use to' - that if you've never tried it, you will be pleasantly surprised! Their milk is higher in butterfat, creamier and a hint sweeter. (Before having nigerians we tried store bought goats milk - and have since found that our fresh nigerian milk is so much better & not goatie - it REALLY is much like cows milk. Cheese is the same story.)

Nigerians produce a large amount of milk considering their tiny size. They can give you plenty - just the right amount. They should be milked 2 time daily 12 hours apart (can vary a an hour or two but keep on routine as much as possible). Some people milk 1 time daily, it works fine but you get a little less milk.

Nigerians can be bred nearly year round - supplying you with fresh milk more often than all the seasonal breeds.

Our milking does are milk stand trained. We 'hand milk' all our does after they wean their kids. Does that are 'for sale after kidding' - and are being sold  'in milk' will go through milk stand training for at least a week or two before leaving. If you are buying a doe 'in milk' & you've never milked before, we will gladly show you how to milk her by hand.

If you only buy 1 doe and have no others at home please consider purchasing a wether as a pen companion for her. (Wethers will also let you know when your doe is in standing heat.)

When you are purchasing a senior, adult, or 8mth+ doe from us (that is not currently in milk) - you can have her be bred to a *buck before you get her if you'd like, just request this ($100 deposit due before breeding) *Note: buck selection is limited to those we choose to offer for free servicing of a doe prior to pickup -Inquire on which bucks are currently available for this - we usually offer 2 or more bucks to choose from. Does that have recently kidded and are in milk are not available to be bred before leaving.

Senior does are females that have kidded 1 or more times. Junior does have not yet kidded (jrs also include the current years doelings & unbred yearlings). They are disbudded- so NO horn

Disease Tested - We test our  adults yearly for  CAE, CL, Johne's & Brucellosis. Our vet & the vet's assistant come out to the farm to pull blood for our annual disease testing. It is quite the event to draw blood from a herd this size, 5 of us get a work out but have quite a system down. (We pull the blood ourselves when doing pregnancy tests.) We recommend that you buy your breeding stock  from tested herds to avoid bringing disease to your herd/farm. Some diseases stay on your property for years & years. We encourage other breeders to blood test their herd for diseases.

BUCKS -

We will occasionally offer a 'SALE Priced' adult buck from our group of herd sires, these bucks were used as sires here and therefore very nice for your herd as well. Take advantage of the discounted sale price and get a proven breeding buck. A great deal for those just getting their small herd started.  (Hint: it's best to buy/transport a buck BEFORE the 'rut' begins for him and he starts getting his bucky odor - Late winter, Spring & early Summer work best.) Please don't leave your buck alone in his pen, consider a second buck or 1-2 wethers for his pen companions if you have no other bucks in with him (2 intact bucks are the best companions though).

All other bucks and new bucklings - Price range usually between $400-$550+(depending on genetics/conformation/dam's mammary etc...) Bucklings must be reserved EARLY. We do not sell any kids as intact Bucks unless he is reserved to be a breeding Buck - they all will become wethers at a very early age otherwise.  Reserve immediatly, or let us know what you are looking for in a buck and we can help you pick from our does' kidding schedules and decide which to be on the waiting list for to get the best possibility in producing the buck you desire - when that buckling is born and you decide on him, a nonrefundable deposit of $100 is required to hold him for you as a buck. Bucks must be paid for in full by 8 wks of age or forfit deposit. We do this so the kid can become a wether before its too late and he becomes a stinky unwanted Buck. (Not all bucklings born are 'future herdsire prospects', therefore, we reserve the right to decide if a buckling will remain intact to carry our herd name & genetics.) *Consider a proven herd sire first - look at our for sale page to see if any are available. Disbudded so NO horns.

Stud Service - LIMITED:  Sorry - servicing is ONLY available for does bought off our farm, directly by you-the original purchaser. ONLY 1-2 of our bucks may be available for stud service- for those not wanting a pungent buck on their premises. These service bucks are limited to those we are not using & that are housed seperate from all our other goats due to being used for does that have been off our farmstead. Our adult herd is blood tested yearly, our service bucks will also be tested one or more times a year. We know more & more people are interested in having 1-2 does for milk, but some just don't need a buck but for a day every year or so. Your doe will need to be in standing heat - we do NOT board, (we only do 'driveway' style service breedings).  Servicing is only available  for does bought  off our farm, directly by you - the original purchaser. Keeping a wether in your doe pen will serve as a GREAT 'Heat Detector' and let you know when to bring the doe to be bred.  A wether works wonderfully to tell you when the time is right-you should bring her that day/evening to be bred. You can also learn to see the 'signs' yourself, but a wether is the best. Inquire on available service bucks and fee.

We do NOT lease out any of our bucks to go to other farms for a breeding season.

STARTER HERD/ MINI HERD PKGS -

If you are looking for a small starter herd / package deal -or just want a tiny herd for milk and if you want your own buck to bred your does (to 'freshen' milk does when needed)- start with a breeding trio. Purchase 2 or more of our does and get $100OFF a buck/buckling (discount only applies when does and buck are purchased & picked up at the same time).

(Young bucklings start at $400+ and must be reserved EARLY -before they become wethers. We reserve the right to decide if a buckling will remain intact  to carry our herd name.)

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--Members of ADGA, AGS & NDGA--

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*Our registered herdname for all 3 registries is Swiftwind. We dual-register all our breeding stock with ADGA & AGS, some also with NDGA. *Goats born here will be tattooed & registered by us, unless they sell at a younger age - in that case we will tattoo them and provide you with the paperworks you will need to easily get them registered. We will tattoo prior to pickup if it hasn't all ready been done by us - so your new little goat may be going home with temporary bright green-ears ;)